After returning from Doubtful Sound, we stayed at the
Freestone BBH Backpackers just outside of the town of Manapouri.
It was a different and rustic place to stay, as each
room is its own building, with a kitchen, living
area, and bed - like bungalows,
but set in the hillside bush overlooking Lake Manapouri and the mountains.
Nice place to stay!
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Tui Lodge, our room at Freestone Backpackers |
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View from Freestone |
We then wound our way south with a few stops along the
way.
Paul got to explore at Clifden
Caves, and we visited Yesteryears Museum/Cafe and the interesting Cwtch gallery (with psychology-inspired art) in
the small Southland town of Tuatapere. After reconnecting with the coast and the windswept trees of Southland, we drove on to Invercargill
where we stayed overnight.
Invercargill
was larger and had more to see than we remembered from a brief stop four years
ago – we enjoyed seeing Henry the tuatara lizard at the Invercargill
Museum, and also saw the World’s Fastest Indian motorcycle (raced by Burt Munro to a number of New Zealand and US speed records) at E. Hayes, a
combination hardware/department/auto parts store and motorcycle/automobile
museum.
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Clifden Caves |
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Helen, the owner of Yesteryears Museum/Cafe in Tuatapere |
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Yesteryears - old kitchen utensils cover one wall |
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Cwtch Gallery |
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We promise we didn't prospect here! |
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The trees in Southland are definitely windswept |
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Henry, the 115 year old tuatara lizard, at Invercargill Museum-
he was a father for the first time at 108 |
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The World's Fastest Indian motorcycle, on display at E. Hayes in Invercargill |
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Paul, going for the new world record in the replica shell at the museum |
The next day we flew out to Stewart Island in an 8-seater prop plane.
Stewart Island is one of our favorite places
in New Zealand – it’s mostly national park, has many walking tracks, has a
permanent population of only 400 and not that many tourists at this time of
year.
We spent one day observing birds
and nature on the predator-cleared Ulva Island inside the main bay of Stewart
Island, and were able to see two kiwis (birds, not persons) in the wild, a sea lion (very close), as
well as a good variety of ferns and other native plants.
We also saw Gadget, the rat dog, and her trainer Sandy King - Gadget was trying to find a single island rat that had recently been seen on island trail cameras.
The second day we did a four-hour hiking loop piecing together parts of
five of the local tracks on Stewart Island.
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Up close and personal with Vlad, the pilot |
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Gadget (down low) and Sandy |
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Sea lion flipping sand on itself |
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View from Ulva Island back to Stewart Island |
We had one more stop on our trip – the Catlins, which is at
the southeast end of the South Island.
We stayed for two nights near Curio Bay, an amazing place that has
fossilized trees and stumps set into the rocks of the bay, huge waves (good
surfing on the nearby beaches), and yellow-eyed penguins that come in at
night.
We also had a day hike to
Waipohatu Falls – though the track was steep and slippery in places, the view
of the falls and the overall experience was well worth it.
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Slope Point, the southernmost land point on the South Island |
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Petrified tree trunks at Curio Bay |
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Petrified tree stump |
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Yellow-Eyed Penguin coming out of the sea at dusk |
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Fern tree on track to Waipohatu Falls |
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Deep in the fern forest |
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Waipohatu Falls |
We wanted to do a little more on our last day in the
Catlins.
We stopped at the
Lost GypsyGallery, Brett Somerville's intriguing bus and grounds consisting of homemade "rustic automata" that you wind up or
otherwise activate.
Our last stop was at Nugget Point, where we
viewed the Nuggets (the collection of rocks that mark this point jutting out
into the sea) and the accompanying lighthouse that has long kept sea travelers
safe.
We’d been fortunate to have very
good weather overall on this trip, and were happy to end with a good day before
heading back to Dunedin and on to Christchurch.
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The Lost Gypsy Gallery's "indoor" display space |
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Brett Somerville, creator of Lost Gypsy Gallery |
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Water feature involving a boot, paua shells, and other mechanical parts |
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Nugget Point lighthouse |
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The Nuggets |
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